Got back home a few days ago after nearly 24 hours of traveling with no sleep.  Today, I actually got fully dressed!  And went outside!  And stood under the bright Santa Fe sun.  I had forgotten how clean the air is here and how it smells of sage.  

Coming back from a great trip is always a challenge.  Once you go so far out of your comfort zone, it can be hard to fit back in.  Right now, it is 2am and I am wide awake and hungry for lunch.

I looked forward to this adventure for so long and now it is over.  I feel sad, but happy to have gone and seen so many wonderful sights and met so many fine people. Here’s a picture that I took from my train from Shingu to Osaka:

I think it will make a great painting, don’t  you?

Yesterday, I took the bus from my lodgings to Shingu station.  Since I had several hours until my train, I went to see the Kamakuri Shrine, which was about a 15 minute walk from the station.  When I got there, here’s what I saw:

Another steep-ass climb!  Three different levels of this!  I got about halfway up and met an Australian couple coming down.  I asked if the shrine was worth the climb. She said yes, he said no.  So of course, I continued upwards.  And here’s what I saw:

I thought it was worth it.  But it was pretty treacherous going down.  I then learned that every February, they hold a festival where young men dress in white and RUN up the steps to the shrine with lit torches.  

I then boarded the train for Osaka for a four hour trip.  A nice lady across the aisle from me gave me an orange.  I love small kindnesses like that! When I got to Osaka, I took the subway to my hotel.  I then enjoyed another hot bath which restored my aching muscles.

So I woke up this morning in my lodgings, feeling about 1,000 years old. I am as stiff and sore (and about as good looking) as an old shoe.  I decided last night that my hike was finished.  I didn’t want to take the chance that the next segment would be as rough as the first.  Hey, one day of that was more than enough!  I take the bus to Hongu Shrine, my destination.  I was there in 30 minutes as opposed to 12 hours!

I show my stamped credential at the Pilgrim’s office.  I also show them my Camino de Santiago credential so that they will register me as a Dual Pilgrim.  I get a special certificate and some nice souvenirs.

I also get to participate in a special drum ceremony.  The monk that I met gave me a special blessing.

Now I am at Yunomine Onsen in my lodgings.  I have had a nice long soak in their mineral springs.  I have a cold beer beside me.  Thanks to Leo and so many helpful Japanese people, I am safe and sound.

Yesterday I hiked the Kumano Kodo from Takijri to Chikatsuyu.  Well, almost.
I took a bus from my lodgings to the trail head and was ready to tackle the trail.  I expected a steep ascent and several hills as the guidebooks I read all mentioned this.  What they DIDN’t mention is that the terrain is incredibly rough.  Mud, rocks, exposed tree roots, narrow paths taking hairpin turns with sheer drop offs on one side.  You couldn’t walk the trail, but had to pick your way through it and hoist yourself up and over.  Oh, forgot to mention, %15 inclines.  Here’s a sample:

Of the eight miles I hiked, roughly 80% was like this or worse.  But there was also incredible beauty:

Now you knew I couldn’t let this blog be without a cat picture!  This pretty one was sleeping on a porch just outside of Takahara.  This is the only cat I saw outside of the cat cafe!

Okay, even young experienced hikers that I met were slowed down by the terrain.  Well, this 66 year old carrying a heavy pack sure wasn’t breaking any speed records.  I noticed that the sun was setting and I was still far away from my lodgings in Chikasatyu.  Not worried yet.

Then the sun set and boy, did it ever get dark in the forest.  Luckily, I had a small flashlight with me.  But now, I’m going down hill and the terrain is actually rougher than it was going up.  And it is pitch dark outside the area of my little flashlight.  I’m really getting concerned now.  My map tells me that I am still several miles away from my destination and I am going even slower due to exhaustion!  Around 5:30, my phone rings.  Thank you Cell Phone God!  It is Leo from Oku Japan, who booked my lodgings wanting to know where I am.  I told him I was still in the woods and still pretty far away.  He said, “Keep walking, I will drive to the rest area and meet you on the trail.”  And that’s exactly what he did.  About 20 minutes later, I hear a faint voice calling my name.  I call back and I see his flashlight.  He guided me out of the woods, taking a short cut, where a car from my lodgings was waiting.  If you want to know what an angel looks like, see below:

I intend to make sure that his employer knows how brave and kind he was to this weary traveler!

Today I begin the Kumano Kodo portion of my trip.  No sumptuous breakfast buffet.  No friendly tour companions to chat with. No handsome tour guide to  shepherd us through the train station.  I am on my own.

I took the subway to the train station in Osaka and took the train to Kii-Tanabe.  Then I took a bus to the Akizuno Garten, my lodging for the night.  Thanks to a kindly bus driver, I got off at the right stop.  This is a lovely place and I wish I could stay longer.  But I got a pilgrimage to do!

My first stamps in my Kumano Kodo credential!

Last night we gathered for one last Japanese dinner at a terrific restaurant. We had assorted appetizers, including a delicious grilled salmon.  Then we had hot pot which is where veggies and beef are simmered in broth in individual pots.  Then rice, miso soup, salad and matcha ice cream.  Silly speeches, heart felt appreciation, and laughter weren’t on the menu, but we had plenty of all three.  Just a wonderful group of people.  I hope that our paths will cross again!

Yesterday was the last day of my OAT tour.  We went to the Fumari shrine in Kyoto, which was quite impressive.  It is nestled in beautiful hills and has a pond and many many Torii gates.  These gates are sponsored by companies who want their business to prosper.  Kinda like buying a brick on a commemorative path.

I like this little guy.  He is a fox who has some rice stalks in his mouth.  It is supposed to bring a good harvest.  He looks more like a playful dog to me, though

Last night we had a wonderful dinner experience, very Japanese.  We had a Shabu-shabu dinner at a restaurant in the Kyoto Station.  What’s that?  Well, it started out with a pan of hot broth and a tray of raw veggies.  Once the broth is boiling, you put the veggies in the pot and let them cook.

Then comes the meat. We had thinly sliced beef.

You put the beef in the broth until it is cooked through.  You can then garnish it with onions, grated radish, wasabi, etc.

It was delicious.  I normally do not eat beef, but I wanted to try this and I’m glad I did.  Plus it really made for a delightful communal experience.  We are near the end of our tour and we’ve all gotten to know and like each other a lot, so there was a lot of good feeling around the hot pots.

After we were done, the waiters came in with a lighted birthday cake for one of our group.  She celebrated her 85th birthday last night.  We sang Happy Birthday to her (in English) and it was just so touching!

Yesterday we visited the Great Buddha Hall in Nara. It is the home of the biggest Buddha statue in the world.

There were several other Buddha statues.  I think this one must be grumpiest looking one in the world.

Yesterday morning we had a delightful visit to a Japanese couple in their home.  They served us tea and a red bean sweet and led us in several fun activities.

Junko had several beautiful kimono and dressed us up!

Seiichi taught us how to write our names in Japanese characters

He then taught us how to play a Japanese card game

They were just wonderful to us!  I was afraid this would be awkward, but it was just lovely.

​Today we are in Kyoto.  Still quite warm here.